- Start by using clippers to trim the sides and back of your hair short.
- Use a comb to lift the hair on top of your head to the desired length, then trim across the comb with the clippers.
- Cut the top of your hair this way until the top is flat and even. Polish and refine it with some barber's scissors.
Preparing for the Haircut
Establish how much hair to take off. Talk with the person whose hair you're cutting and decide how long the top and sides should be. This information can help you decide which clipper blades to purchase (see Step 3). Do they want it thicker around the sides, or do they want skin showing around the head? How much hair do they want to leave on top?
Purchase a hair clipper and detachable steel blades. Three major brands are Oster, Wahl, and Andis. Blades come with specific length settings. For example, the Oster "000" blade cuts hair to ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm). In general, 1/4- to 3/8-inch attachments are good choices for standard flat tops. For flat tops with very close sides where the skin shows, select the smallest-length blade (e.g., an Oster 0000 for very close, 1/8-inch sides). Although clippers come with detachable plastic length guards, these are not as effective at producing smooth, even results in one go as the steel blades.
Cutting the Flat Top
Use the clippers to trim the sides of your head short. Start on the right side of head at the temple, moving the clippers from the bottom of the hair upwards in a vertical line. Work in small sections, making your way towards the back of the head. Use a blade-on-skin technique to cut vertical sections around the sides and back. To perform this technique, comb a small section of the hair downwards, rest the clipper attachment against the skin starting at the bottom of your section (the blade part should point upwards), and move up in a vertical line. When cutting the sides, be sure you follow an imaginary vertical line up to the sky - do not follow the curve of the head. When the head starts to curve towards the crown, just continue moving your clippers upwards into the air.
Trim the back of your head short. At the back of the head, run clippers up to the crown and then round off just slightly. Although the flat top is a square haircut, the back needs to be slightly blended into the top for a balanced effect. "Round off" means instead of working in an absolutely vertical line all the way to the top (as you would at the sides), move your clippers to follow the curve of the head just slightly at the beginning of the crown.
Cut the top using a comb and clippers. Start at the back of the crown and, holding your comb parallel to the floor, lift a small section of hair upwards to the desired length. Use clippers to raze away excess hair sticking out of the comb. Hold the clippers so they are parallel to the comb. Work your way, section by section, to the forehead. Use small sections to avoid clipper lines. Make sure every section is as long as the previous one. Comb the hair back from the forehead and repeat the top-cutting process for a clean, even finish.
Finishing and Styling the Flat Top
Inspect your work. Cut off all long hairs or areas that need touching up with scissors.
Use a t-trimmer to trim the sideburns and neck area to desired length.Hold the t-trimmer with the blade against the skin, and then pull the clipper away at the same angle. Start at the bottom and work upwards gradually - working downwards may cause irritation.
Use pomade or styling wax to help the top stand up straight. Apply a little product and comb the top upwards with a brush or comb. Blowdrying the hair upwards can also help add volume and shape. Dab the forehead afterwards with a towel to make sure there's no product left over on the skin.
Trim the flat top every few weeks. The long hair on top is likely to grow out quickly, requiring regular maintenance to keep it looking fresh.
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