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Coating Your Brows With Spirit Gum
Gather supplies. You probably already have what you need to cover up your eyebrows around the house. Get everything ready before you get started. Here's what you need: A small bottle of spirit gum (sold at costume shops, and is made for use on the face) Petroleum jelly (e.g. Vaseline) Translucent concealer powder that matches the color of your skin Liquid concealer or foundation that matches the color of your skin Colour correcting concealer (optional)
Prep your brows and skin. This method lasts longest on clean skin. Wash your face well, removing any makeup you might be wearing. Do not apply moisturizer or any other products to the skin around your eyebrows. Lotions and other lubricants could prevent the spirit gum from sticking.
Gently coat your brows with petroleum jelly. This will give your brows a layer of protection from the harsh adhesive. Missing this step makes it more likely that the spirit gum will damage or tear out your brow hairs.
Apply the spirit gum against the grain of your eyebrows. This step will ensure your eyebrow hairs get coated down to the roots. Run it from the outside of your brows toward the inside, making sure to cover your eyebrows in spirit gum.
Apply a second layer of spirit gum in the direction of your hairs. This time, apply it in the direction of your eyebrow hair growth, running from your inner brows to your outer brows.
Use an eyebrow brush to comb your brows flat. You want your brows to flow in the correct direction, with each hair lying flat against your face. Use an eyebrow brush (or an old toothbrush) to comb your eyebrows and neatly flatten them. If you have thick eyebrows, you may want to spread them above and below your brow line to help them lie flat. Squish the hairs above and below their natural line so they don't form a raised area over your browbone. Make sure the the spirit gum is smooth. You don't want extra buildup anywhere. The smoother it is applied, the more natural your final look will be.
Let the spirit gum dry for ten minutes, then apply another layer. Apply the it in the direction of your hair growth, taking care to help each hair lie as flat as possible against your face. If you have thick eyebrows, you may want to wait another ten minutes and apply a third layer.
Perforate the spirit gum with your brow brush. Your makeup may have a hard time sticking to a completely hard, slick surface, so before the final layer dries, use your brow brush to lightly perforate the it. Make tiny holes and scratches over the surface to imitate the texture and pores of your skin.
Applying Makeup to Conceal Your Brows
Apply translucent powder over the glue. Use a light dusting brush or a cotton pad to apply the powder. This will set the glue and become a base for your foundation. Dust off any excess with a large makeup brush.
Apply concealer over your brows. Use a light layer of a full-coverage concealer to counter the color of your eyebrows. Apply a second layer if necessary to completely conceal your brows. You can also use a thick foundation to do the job. Do some research about colour correction makeup. This will make it easier to prevent the colour of your eyebrows showing through. Always make sure you apply a layer of nude concealer or foundation after you apply colour correction, or you won't get the colour correcting effect and will instead end up with coloured brows. For black eyebrows with a hint of blue, use an orange-tinted concealer. For red eyebrows, use a green-tinted concealer. Dark eyebrows sometimes appear green through pale concealer. Try a light layer of red lipstick to counteract this.
Dust over your eyebrows with loose powder. This final step will set your foundation or concealer, completely obscuring your brows. Blend in lightly. Take a step back and fill in any areas that could use more coverage if necessary.
Finished.
Removing the Spirit Gum
Use makeup remover to take off the layers of makeup. Remove the powder and concealer first using makeup remover pads or cleanser. This will make it much easier to remove the spirit glue underneath.
Use spirit gum remover to remove the spirit gum. Normal makeup remover will not break down spirit gum. To remove spirit gum without removing your eyebrows, you need something which will break down the spirit gum. You should be able to purchase spirit gum remover at the same place as the spirit gum. If you absolutely can't get spirit gum remover, very gently use water with water. Soak a washcloth in very warm water. Make sure the water you use is warm, verging on hot. Cool water will not remove the glue.
Hold the spirit gum remover against your eyebrows for a few minutes. This will soften the spirit gum and help it begin to detach from your eyebrow hairs.
Wipe away the spirit gum. Use the washcloth to gently wipe away the spirit gum from your eyebrows. It should come off easily. Reapply the remover as necessary to soften and remove the rest of it. Do not scrub your eyebrows; gently wipe them. Scrubbing your brows could tear out some of the hairs. If the spirit gum still won't budge, use rubbing alcohol or spirit gum remover.
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