Permits and Materials
Look up your local laws regarding roof installation and rehab. Contact your local building department or look their codes up online to see what the process for this looks like where you live. You may need to submit architectural plans to a committee, and if you have a homeowner’s association you may need to reach out to them first.
Apply for the necessary building permits if required. Contact your local building department or look their codes up online to see what the process for this is where you live. If you need to file permits and plans yourself, follow the instructions as they’re outlined by your local laws to submit your application. Expect to pay anywhere between $250-500 for your building permits. If your roof is bigger than 1,000 square feet (93 m), you will likely to need to pay more and file for additional permits. In most areas, you don’t need a permit to replace a single shingle or something like that, but you almost always need a permit to install an entirely new roof.
Measure the size of your roof. If possible, pull up the architectural plans for your home to make this easy. These plans will give you all of the measurements you need. If you don’t have those, you’ll need to get up on the roof and measure it yourself. For each portion of the roof, multiply the length and width together to find the area. Add your areas together. This will tell you how much roofing material you’ll need to order. For a pitched roof, this is going to be exceptionally challenging. You may be better off simply estimating the size of each section and then ordering a little extra so that you have plenty of material to cover the entire roof. It is highly recommended that you don’t install roofing on a gable roof on your own, though.
Choose between asphalt shingles and membrane roofing. There are only two realistic options for DIY roof installation when it comes to the material. Shingles are the most popular option out there because they’re the easiest to install and replace. EPDM rubber roofing is going to be your all around best bet for a DIY job on a flat roof. Unlike the other options for a flat roof, EPDM membrane comes in really big sheets so you don’t need to worry as much about fixing the seams. If you have a pitched roof, shingles are likely the best option. You can install EPDM on a pitched roof, but it won’t look particularly good. Metal, slate, ceramic, concrete, PVC, and TPO are all semi-popular roofing options, but they require specialized tools and they’re too complex to install on your own without a professional crew.
Order your materials and purchase any necessary tools. Depending on the roofing material you’re going for, you’ll need to order the supplies. Most big box home improvement stores will ship roofing materials, but you can order them from a wholesale supplier or roofing contractor as well. Once you know when the roofing materials will arrive, pick up the tools you’ll need to install everything.
Take the proper safety precautions. If your roof is angled at all, you must purchase and install a personal fall arrest system. The instructions will come with the system you buy, but it generally involves installing an anchor in the roof, and then attaching a reinforced lifeline to a harness. Without one of these, you cannot work on the roof. If you don’t have direct roof access, you’ll also need a reinforced ladder and someone to hold it. If you’ve got a flat roof with a railing or barrier, you can reasonably install the roofing materials without any extra safety steps. Do not work on your roof when it’s dark out, if it’s windy, or if there’s any chance of rain. It’s not safe to do any work in unstable conditions.
Shingle Installation
Mark the location for the drip edge with a pencil and chalk. If you need to install new overhangs, hold the drip edge up flush along the edge of the roof so that it’s flush with the roof. Place hash marks using a pencil on the ends of the edge and use a chalk line to snap a straight line between the two points. If your roof is really big, you may need 2-3 people to help you out on this one. You can cut the flashing using tin snips or a hand saw if you want to split the drip edge into smaller pieces that are easier to work with. If you can’t reach the edge of the roof with a ladder, hire someone to do this. It isn’t safe to lean over the side of the building and do this upside down. Drip edge flashing is the small strip of wood, metal, or plastic that runs along the rim of the house so that water spills out over the overhang.
Nail the drip edge into place with roofing nails. Fill a nail gun with 1 ⁄4 inches (3.2 cm) roofing nails. Line your drip edge up along the line that you created and nail it into place. If you have helpers, you can use a hammer to install the drip edge if you prefer. Once your drip edges are installed, head up to the roof. If you have a gable roof, install drip edge flashing along any seam where two sides of the roof meet.
Install the felt roofing paper with a nail gun. Lay out your rolls of roofing paper so that they’re mostly flat and line them up along the edges of the roof. Working slowly and carefully, nail the paper into place by driving 1 ⁄4 inches (3.2 cm) roofing nails into the wood below. For most climates, you want to use 30 pounds (14 kg) roofing paper. Cut the roofing paper with a utility knife if you need to fit it around any pipes, chimneys, or other obstructions. It doesn’t need to be absolutely perfect, but you do want most of the roof covered.
Lay the first row of shingles at the bottom of the roof. Start at the bottom of the roof and work your way up to layer the shingles on top of one another. Set the first shingle down so it hangs out ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) over the drip edge. Check to see that it’s even with a spirit level and use your chalk line to mark a horizontal row. Drive a roofing nail through the flat portion of the shingle at the top, and install a single row around the entire roof. If you have 3-tab shingles, there’s typically a “starter” set that goes down first. These shingles are slightly easier to install since they fold together really cleanly, but you do need to use the starter shingle first.
Work your way up in rows to lay your shingles on top of one another. Repeat the chalk line process with your second row. Lay the first shingle down so that the bottom 5 inches (13 cm) are laying over the top of your first row. Once it’s level, snap your chalk line and repeat the process by nailing the shingles into the roof. Position the shingles so that the vertical grooves between the individual shingles rest in the center of the row above it. This pyramid-style layering is the safest way to protect the shingles and the roof from water. If your shingles are bigger than the traditional asphalt shingles, just try to split the difference when it comes to how much overlap there is between the columns. So long as you’re consistent and the top portion of each shingle is covered, it should be fine.
Cover the rest of the roof and install flashing around pipes and edges. Keep repeating this process by adding additional layers. Work your way up until you’ve totally covered the roof. Then, measure, cut, and bend the flashing for your chimney. Install the flashing by laying it over the edge and around the pipes, and nail it into place. Lay exterior silicone caulk around the seams to protect them from water. Flashing is fairly easy to work with, but you do want to make sure the angles and edges are as flush as possible.
Membrane Roofing
Install your drip trim if the roof has no overhang. If you don’t have an overhand and there are no railings or runoffs, install a drip edge with wood trim. Lay the strips of drip trim along the edge of the roof where your roof ends and use a nail gun or nail and hammer to adhere it to the roof. This will keep water from dripping down the side of your building as it spills off of the roof.
Lay your membrane sheets out and let them sit for 20 minutes. Bring your sheets up to the roof. These things come in giant rolls, so remove the wrapping and lay them out. Wait at least 20 minutes for the membrane sheets to relax. This will give them time to adjust to the environment, which is essential if you want to avoid wrinkles, stretches, or sags. If you attach the sheets to the roof before they’ve had time to acclimate to the environment, they may shift, shrink, or stretch after the glue cures. This can reduce the level of protection over time.
Line the sheets up so that they’re sitting where you’ll install them. This part is fairly easy—simply adjust the sheets by hand until they’re lined up where you want them to sit. There should be at least 3–5 inches (7.6–12.7 cm) of overhang, and if you’re using multiple sheets, layer the seams on top of one another so that there’s a 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) overlap. To join the seams when it comes time, use a brush to spread the adhesive along the overlap, apply splicing tape over the adhesive, and remove the cover of the splice tape. Smooth it out by hand with a roller. You’re going to lift the sheets up, but you can’t start the installation process if they aren’t lined up where you want them first.
Cut the rubber as needed with a utility knife to fit corners. If your roof has any odd angles or you run into chimneys or odd edges, cut the membrane sheets with a utility knife or scissors. Air on the side of caution and always leave a little extra material to totally cover the flat portion of the roof. You’ll cover these gaps with flashing, but it’s still better if there’s a little bit of extra material.
Mix and apply the manufacturer-recommended adhesive. Follow the instructions to mix the EPDM adhesive in the container. Usually, you just mix it with a mixing stick. Peel roughly half of a membrane sheet back and apply the glue using a foam roller. Start on the section of the roof that’s furthest from the middle of the sheet, and apply the adhesive to the roof while leaving at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) open around the rim of the roof. Apply adhesive to the underside of the membrane as well. Wait a few minutes for the adhesive to cure a bit. It shouldn’t be dripping wet, and you should be able to touch the adhesive with your finger to feel the tack without it coming off on your finger.
Smooth out the first half of the sheet. Once the adhesive is tacky, slowly and carefully spread the sheet over the adhesive so the two surfaces are touching. Smooth it out with your hand while you work to remove any air bubbles. Once the first half is in place, use a roller to smooth out the membrane and make it flat and uniform. If there is a bubble or wrinkle, don’t worry. The adhesive isn’t permanent until it has fully cured.
Repeat this process on the other half of the membrane sheet. Peel back the other half of the sheet and repeat this process by applying the adhesive on both the underside of the sheet, and the roof itself. Smooth it out by hand and run a roller over the surface to smooth it out. Continue doing this with any additional sheets you’re installing. Leave seams for the end if you have any. You’re only gluing down the centers of the sheets here.
Adhere the edges and smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles. There’s normally a more potent adhesive that you use to glue down the edges near the overhang. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to glue the edges down. Take extra care to roll the roof so that you force down any air bubbles, wrinkles, or blemishes. Once the adhesive cures, you won’t be able to move the membrane around, so you have to smooth everything down now. You apply the stronger adhesive to the edges using a roller the same way you applied the weaker adhesive.
Fold the edges up and install the trim flashing. For the portions of the membrane sheet that stick out over the overhang, fold the corners down like you’re folding a gift with wrapping paper. Pinch the sheets in place, and slide the corner cap for your trim flashing over the corner to hold it in place. Repeat this process on the other corners and finish by installing the rest of your flashing. You don’t need to glue the overhang in place. The flashing should hold the membrane in place once it is installed. Fill in any gaps between the flashing and the roof with exterior silicone sealant.
Professional Contractor
Contact reputable roofing contractors in the area and get quotes. If a neighbor of close friend just had their roof replaced, ask them for recommendations. Alternatively, you can look online to find reputable, licensed contractor in your area and ask them for a quote. Most contractors will give you quotes for free. Once you find a well-reviewed contractor who can handle the job, ask them what you need to do to move forward. In most cases, so long as you hire a licensed contractor, you don’t need to file for permits yourself; the contractor will handle this stuff for you or walk you through it step by step. Before you pull the trigger, ask how long they’ve been in business and request a copy of their contractor’s license. Also, ask them what kind of material they suggest for your roof. Different buildings and climates call for different kinds of roofing solutions, so talk it over with them.
Determine what type of roofing material you want. The main considerations when it comes to choosing a roofing materials are the aesthetics and the durability. The cost of a new roof will vary dramatically depending on the size of the roof, the shape of your roof, and the material you choose. Generally speaking, you should expect to spend anywhere from $7,000 to 12,000 on the materials and installation. Asphalt shingles tend to be the cheapest, and it’s fairly easy to replace a few shingles in the future if your roof ever get damaged. These roofs aren’t the most durable, though. Membrane roofs (i.e. rubber or vinyl roofing) are more expensive, but these roofs tend to last very long and they’re less labor intensive to install. Metal roofing is very expensive but it can last a very long time. Other options include slate, ceramic tile, and concrete. These materials are all extremely durable.
Sign a contract with the contractor and wait for your roof to be built. The contractor will draw up a contract detailing the estimated costs, time, and warranty information. Look it over carefully so that you understand once you’re signing. Feel free to try negotiating the terms and prices if you’d like! If you’re happy with the contract, sign it and put down your initial payment if necessary.
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