How to Blind Hem Stitch

Preparing the Garment

Remove the seam from the existing hem. You can do this with a seam ripper or small nail scissors. Or, if the garment is much longer than desired, you can cut off the bottom with fabric scissors. Don't make the garment too short, though! Leave several inches to prepare your blind hem.

Try on the garment (right side out) in front of a full-length mirror and decide on a desired length for the hem. Stand on a stool or table and ask a friend to put a few pins at the correct level.

Remove the garment and mark the desired hemline around the leg or skirt. Remove the pins. Use water-soluble pencil, pen, or chalk. Alternatively, you can mark the hemline with pins.

Decide how deep you want your hem, and mark a line that distance above and below the hemline. For example, if you want a 2-inch deep hem, you mark a line 2 inches (5.1 cm) above and 2 inches below the hemline. Again, you can use a water-soluble pen or pencil, or do this with pins.

Trim the raw edge, leaving about 1 inch (3 cm) below your lowest line. Be certain to leave an inch of fabric!

Fold the raw edge in and press with an iron. If you have 1 inch (2.5 cm) of raw edge, tuck 1/2 inch (5.1 cm) of fabric under, leaving the remaining ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) under your bottom line. Some experts suggest sewing this fold with a basic straight stitch or finishing the raw edge with an over edge or zigzag stitch, but this may not be an essential step.

Tuck the fabric under along the middle line so that it now forms the hemline. Do this by pinching the fabric at the middle line (what's to be your final hemline). Your other two lines (above and below the hemline) should line up, since they are equidistant from the hem. Pin around the hem to hold this fold in place.

Cuff the hem by folding along the line above the hem and pin. At this point, your bottom line will once again be exposed, and below it the pressed raw edge. You can remove the previous pins and use them to secure the folds.

Press the folds lightly with an iron. After you've done this, you can remove the pins if you wish, but it isn't necessary.

Preparing Your Sewing Machine

Check that your sewing machine has a blind hem presser foot in its collection. The sewing machine requires a specific foot for this stitch, with the vertical bar passing between the two feet. Alternatively, buy a universal blind hem presser foot for your machine in a sewing shop or online. These feet are fairly inexpensive and a good choice if your machine does not have the blind hem presser foot. Make sure, however, that it fits your machine. Check the product specifications before buying: they'll usually say which machines it works with. If you can't find a presser foot for your machine, you can still make this hem! Skip to sewing instructions in Part 3, Step 2.

Attach the blind hem presser foot to the sewing machine. Follow the instructions for your particular machine.

Set the machine to the blind hem stitch setting. This setting is often indicated by two stitches spaced far apart, but check your user's manual to be sure. Now you're ready to sew!

Sewing the Blind Hem Stitch

Turn the fabric wrong side up (inside out, in other words) and position it on the sewing machine. Make sure the foot's vertical plate is sitting right on top of the fold. The machine is going to stitch along the raw edge section mostly, but cross the plate into the fold every few stitches.

Stitch slowly. Hold the fabric carefully so that the fold stays just under the vertical plate. This way the needle is sure to catch it. If you do not have a blind hem presser foot, make the stitch pattern manually: Put the machine feed dogs on the inside. Place your fabric on the machine as in Step 1. Make five straight stitches, and then one stitch to barely catch the fold. Continue around the hem.

Inspect your work. Remove the garment, snip the thread, and turn right side out. Check for any missed stitches. If needed, go back and redo the sections where there is a missing stitch.

Remove the pins and press the hem. If a line remains from the previous hemline, try spritzing it with a bit of distilled water and ironing. If this doesn't work, it will probably come out when laundered.